Get the right price Get your car valuated from a professional car valuator. Who can give you the approximate market price. When looking at a valuation make sure you factor in features that affect the price, such as condition, mileage, special features. Also keep in mind whether you are looking for a valuation for a private sale or a trade in/part exchange.

Prepare your car
A good looking car and well organised portfolio will help you achieve a better price. As a minimum, thoroughly clean your car inside and out and make sure your maintainence records is up to date. If your car doesn't have an maintainence records it will put perspective buyers off as they will assume it needs serious repairs. Prepare a portfolio for the vehicle with registration log, service book, vehicle hand book etc. If you want to get the best price possible, think about changing your tyres so that they are all matching and have any minor repair works carried out. A professional valet is also a good idea if your car is particularly dirty.

THE Perfect AD
If you are advertising your car privately, give a good honest description. Be sure to include make, exact model, year of registration and place, mileage, colour, condition, number of owners, Tax, location and contact details in your ad. Stick to hard facts that buyers will understand such as: clean, low mileage, one owner, full service record, etc. Include special features such as a car alarm, immobiliser, Sat Nav, CD changer etc. Always try to include at least one photo of the interior and one of the exterior and preferably more - you will receive a better response!

The Test Drive
First of all make sure the driver has adequate insurance cover otherwise you could be liable for any accidents they may have. Never let a buyer go out alone as they might not come back! When swapping seats never leave the keys in the ignition as thieves mastermind such situations and leave you stranded at the side of the road!

CAR Inspection
These days buyers are more willing to pay for a used car inspection. If you are serious about selling your vehicle and have nothing to hide, you shouldn't object in having one carried out. But be aware this can take a few days to arrange and means you would have to place other perspective buyers "on hold". To make sure the buyer is seriously interested in your car take an deposit

Doing the deal Set a price in your mind that you will accept that is a little below the asking price and negotiate. Stay firm but without being unreasonable. Remember it will cost you time and money to re-advertise your car again

Payment mode
If you are paid by cash look out for forgery notes and make sure you count it to double check it's all there. If you are paid by cheque make sure the funds have hit your account before you arrange to hand over your car. The best payment method is a bank draft. This is as good as cash as it proves the buyer has the funds in his/her account. Lastly always provide a receipt and ask the buyer for ID. If anything goes wrong you will know where to find them.

How can I get a fair price?
Before you visit any dealer, do your homework and find out what your car is worth at trade in value. set a price in your mind that you will accept that is a little bit below the market price and negotiate. A car dealer will usually try to haggle, it's their business, but stay firm and be prepared to walk away if they don't offer the price you're looking for. However, remember it will cost you time and money to go elsewhere

TIPS FOR SAVING FUEL

If you're not ready to buy a more fuel-efficient car, you can still save money in whatever vehicle you drive. indiawheels.com provides the tips and dispels the myths.

Revive the Classics
The biggest fuel savings comes not from hybrid technology but from the old standards: car pooling and public transportation. If you and just one friend or neighbor trade off commuting to and from work, you cut your fuel usage by about 50 percent. No other step will save you as much money. Also, if you have two vehicles in the family motor pool, leave the thirstier one in the garage as often as possible. Public transportation saves fuel, and possibly money. It also decreases congestion, which saves everyone fuel. Help yourself and everyone else; be part of the solution.

Get the Lead Out
Weight is fuel economy's natural enemy, so removing unnecessary items — or people — from your car can translate to real fuel savings.

Get the Leadfoot Out
You can save fuel immediately in whatever you drive by going easy on the accelerator. Jack rabbit starts and full-throttle acceleration boost fuel consumption dramatically. It's all a matter of degree: Light acceleration saves more than moderate acceleration. Top speed also plays a part. Most vehicles are most efficient when cruising in their top gear at a relatively low speed. For example, a car with a five-speed transmission would be most efficient in 5th gear at 40 to 55 mph. Wind resistance increases exponentially with speed, so as your pace increases from this point, fuel economy drops dramatically.

An Ounce of Prevention
Keeping your tires inflated properly and your engine running right is critical to efficient motoring. Underinflated tires can lower your fuel economy by full kilometers per litre. (Get the proper inflation pressure from the sticker on your car's doorjamb or the owner's manual, and not the tire's sidewall.) Even if your car seems to be running well, that perplexing Check Engine light could represent a dead oxygen sensor or some other emissions control problem that causes the vehicle to waste several kilometers per litre.

Open Windows or Air Conditioning?
This is an age-old conundrum. (Unlike a car's heater, which uses free engine heat to warm the cabin, the air conditioner robs engine power and lowers fuel economy.) So which approach is better? Sorry, but it's not as simple as one or the other. If your car has been sitting in the sun and is hotter than the outside air, drive for a few minutes with the windows open to cool it off. Then, if you're hitting the highway, close 'em up and turn on the A/C. Aerodynamics are more important at high speeds, so if you're not exceeding 35 or 40 mph, open windows won't make as much difference. It also depends on the vehicle. The detriment from driving with the windows down is greater, say, in a Chevy Corvette, which has excellent aerodynamics, than in a Hummer, which has ... none. The same applies to convertibles; you'll burn less fuel with the top up.

Keep It Sleek
Speaking of aerodynamics, roof-top carriers and bike and ski racks don't do you any favors — even when they're empty. If you keep all your cargo inside the car, you'll slip through the wind better. Also, strip off any aftermarket add-ons such as bug deflectors and window and sunroof wind deflectors. By design, these items work by wrecking your aerodynamics. Sure, bug entrails on your windshield are gross, but they aren't known to cost you any fuel.

Premium or Regular?
Lower octane costs less, but should you use it? Most modern cars that call for premium fuel can run on regular gasoline without knocking or any long-term penalty. Technically, this makes the car less efficient, but not to a degree that negates the cost savings from the cheaper fuel grade. NOTE: This is true of cars for which premium is recommended, not required. If in doubt, look for terms such as "for best performance" and "recommended" as opposed to "only" or "required." If your car has a turbocharger or supercharger, you probably should stick with premium fuel. Of course, if your car calls for regular gasoline, there's no reason to run it on anything higher in octane.

MAINTENANCE TIPS

The best and most efficient method of knowing about your car and keeping track of it is through the owner's manual which provides complete information on how to go about it. You can inspect your car every time you enter it, or on a daily or weekly basis or at intervals specified in the manual
  1) Keep your engine and engine compartment, as well as your radiator fins and grill, as clean as possible. A clean engine runs much cooler - and   it's much easier to work on.
  2) Replace coolant at or before factory recommended intervals with the proper type, mixture and volume of coolant. Always allow the coolant   system to rid itself of air before installing the radiator cap.
  3) Replace all cooling system hoses - upper and lower radiator hoses, bypass hoses, heater hoses, manifold coolant hoses and any other hoses   on your vehicle - whenever you even suspect there may be a problem. All hoses should be replaced at least every two years.
  4) Replace the thermostat with the original temperature setting equivalent. The electronics in your vehicle may use that setting for other   controls. Do not substitute under any circumstances.
  5) Replace the radiator/expansion tank cap with the original pressure setting and OE-type equivalent. Some aftermarket substitutions do not   seal and hold pressure properly on foreign-manufactured cars. Again, don't substitute.
  6) Adjust or replace the water pump drive belt (external) at recommended intervals or more frequently, if required. Check belts whenever   you're working on any coolant system components.
  7) Replace your water pump with an OEM/OES pump at the first signs of trouble or when your timing belt and tensioner are replaced. Watch for   signs of overheating - you don't want to break down in the hot sun when your water pump fails.
  8) Replace the fan clutch and/or fan blade as needed (if applicable). Your car's temperature gauge is often your best guide as to when your fan   clutch needs attention.
  9) Replace temperature sensors as required by diagnosis. Leave troubleshooting of your sensors to experts who have the proper equipment   and diagrams.
  10) Keep your entire vehicle properly maintained because of the effect timing, idle speed, exhaust and other systems have on your engine's    temperature. Your car's cooling system is designed to function with all other systems operating properly. It cannot make up for a poorly operating   or overheating engine condition.

A Few While Driving Tips.

At times, strange smells may emanate from inside your car.
The possible causes may be:
    • Musty odours indicate the existence of some trapped water, usually under the carpet. This will ruin the carpet and also speed up corrosion.     The proper solution would be to remove the carpets and dry up both the carpet and the floor.
    • Smoky smells are of various kinds. Electrical smoky smells are the most dangerous and it is advisable to shut down, open the     bonnet,disconnect the batteries and seek professional help. Other smoky smells may occur when the sound or heat proof lining inside the     engine space burns. Trace the cause.
    • Fuel smells occurs either when the fuel tank venting gets choked or if there has been an overflow.
    • Sometimes, oil or exhaust smells from the engine occur. This maybe caused either due to too much engine oil, or if the engine oil has grown     old and is burning, or if it has been overheated.
    • A typical sweatish smell emanates when varnish is being burnt which occurs when your dynamo or alternator is about to pack up and would,     usually be accompanied by flickering lights.
    • Burning rubber smells tend to come when you drive with your brakes on. Overheated tyres may also be the cause.
    Strange smells are an early warning signal that need to be heeded if much more time and money are to be saved later on.
    Strange sounds tend to be sidelined in the bustle and din of our roads, and by the car stereo playing in the background. However, if the     problem persists, the car will make its condition known every time you take a corner or ride over a bump. Some easily recognizable sounds are.
    • Strange clicking while taking a turn from the front wheels means that the front shaft is about to fall apart. Get it fixed before it actually does
    • A fan-belt squeal means that another one is needed.
    • Rhythmic clicks from the wheel indicate faulty bearings at worst or just large pebbles stuck in the tread pattern at the best.
    • A change in engine tone usually indicates engine overheating, especially if you have been driving at constant speeds for a long time.     Stopping or varying the engine speed should be enough if there is no severe problem. Otherwise, let the car cool down and then check     radiator and water levels.
    • Backfiring while normal driving means serious problems and should be properly investigated. Promptly.
    • Engine knocks means that it is time to get into a lower gear. If it persists, however, it is time to get your engine and engine oil checked.

At times, your car give personal signals which can be deciphered by only the user. Strange 'hiccups' while driving indicate faulty fuel which would in turn cause faulty carb or fuel injector. If there is unequal or wrong air pressure in tyres, it is evident on braking. Unexplained shudders in braking indicate problems in suspension or linkages.
Finally, you can avoid strange repair bills if you have been going in for regular check ups!

In this section, we deal with car parts that need regular care.

Engine:- The engine does the most amount of work in you r car. Its moving parts run at high speed and function at very high temperatures. For the protection of your engine, change your oil regularly, about every 4,000 km. Follow the manufacturers recommendations on oil and filter changes. Engine oil, transmission fluid and fuel are systems that need to be checked and replaced periodically.
Tyres:- They wear out unevenly. For them to last longer, keep rotating the position of the tyres and balance them at intervals of around 10,000 km. Under-inflated tyres also increase your fuel consumption by 10%. A periodic check for stone and gravel enmeshed in the tyres is also a must.
Brakes:-At times you may notice that brakes tend to become unresponsive, wobbly and act slowly. It is time to check and top-up the brake fluid reservoir.
Battery:- For the prevention of corrosion, it is imperative that you clean the battery terminals regularly and apply a light coating of grease. Also, check the level of distilled water in the battery and ensure that the plates are covered at all times. If the level of water is very low, the acid becomes concentrated and the plates get corroded.
Interior:- The interior of the cars must always be spotlessly clean. Regular vaccum of the interior will prevent the deposition of any kind of sand, dust, grime or salt from damaging the floor surface. Wipe the dash, seats, instrument panel and the rear parcel shelf. Use special car cleaners and not household stuff for cleaning.
For cleaning leather interiors, use only leather-cleaning products. Avoid cleaners with high alkaline content as they tend to bleach the color off the leather.
Exterior:- A well maintained exterior is a sign of good maintenance and goes a long way in jacking up its resale value. This is especially important in coastal cities where salt air corrodes unprotected metal surfaces.
Wash regularly to keep rust at bay. Wash windscreens with soap and water. Follow it up with clean water. Then use chamois leather to wipe all the spots dry. When the car is dry, use a rag dipped in methylated spirit and water solution to polish the glass.
So then, cars also pass their infancy, reach maturity and then old age. For a painless evolution from one stage to the other, for both your sakes, look after your car. Yes. Regular Servicing are those words.
Air filter: - Check it every month. Replace it when it becomes dirty or as part of a tune -up. It is easy to reach, right under the big metal 'lid', in a carbureted engine; or in a rectangular box at the forward end of the air in a duct hose assembly.
Battery: - Extreme caution should be taken while handling a battery since it can produce explosive gases. It is advisable not to smoke, create a spark or light a match near a battery. Always wear protective glasses and gloves.
Belts: - Inspect belts and hoses smoothly. Replace glazed, worn or frayed belts. Replace bulging, rotten or brittle hoses and tighten clamps. If a hose looks bad, or feels too soft or too hard, it should be replaced.
Brake Fluid: - Check the brake fluid monthly. First wipe dirt from the brake master cylinder reservoir lid. Pry off the retainer clip and remove the lid or unscrew the plastic lid, depending on which type your vehicle has. If you need fluid, add the improved type and check for possible leaks throughout the system. Do not overfill.
Engine Oil: - Check the oil after every fill up. Remove the dipstick, wipe it clean. Insert it fully and remove it again. If it is low, add oil. To maintain peak performance, the oil should be changed every 4,000 Kilometers or 3 months, whichever comes first. Replace the oil filter with every oil change.
Exhaust: - Look underneath for loose or broken exhaust clamps and supports. Check for holes in muffler or pipes. Replace the rusted or damaged parts. Have the emission checked at once per year for compliance with local laws.
Hoses: - Inspect the hoses and belts monthly. If a hose looks bad, or feels too soft or too hard, it should be replaced.
Lights: - Make sure that all your lights are clean and working, including the brake lights, turn signals and emergency flashers. Keep spare bulbs and fuses in your vehicle.
Oil Filter: - To maintain peak performance, change oil every 3 months or 4,000 kms whichever comes first. Replace oil filter with every oil change.
Power Steering Fluid: - Check the power steering fluid level once per month. Check it by removing the reservoir dipstick. If the level is down, add fluid and inspect the pump and hoses for leaks.
Shock Absorbers: - Look for signs of oil seepage on shock absorbers, test shock action by bouncing the car up and down. The car should stop bouncing when you step back. Worn or leaking shocks should be replaced. Always replace shock absorbers in pairs. Tyres: - Keep tyres inflated to recommended pressure. Check for cuts, bulges and excessive tread wear. Uneven wear indicates tyres are misaligned or out of balance. Transmission Fluid: - Check transmission fluid monthly with engine warm and running, and the parking brake on. Shift to drive, then to park. Remove dipstick, wipe dry, insert it and remove it again. Add the approved type fluid, if needed. Never overfill. Washer Fluid: - Keep the windshield washer fluid reservoir full. Use some of it to clean off the wiper blades. Wiper Blades: - Inspect the windscreen wiper blades whenever you clean your windshield. Do not wait until the rubber is worn or brittle to replace them. They should be replaced at least once per year, and more often if smearing occurs.

Tips to Change a Tyre

To change a tyre is something most people are not keen on. Here we try to make it easy and as interesting for you. So that the next time you are involved in this fix, you will be out of it in a jiffy. Before you begin, make sure that
• The jack in your car is there
• There is a properly inflated spare tyre
• You have a lug wrench that fits your wheel
• Lug bolts
Steps to Follow :
After you have parked your car safely, put a couple of bricks or stones beneath the tyres to make sure that it does not roll down.
Bring your jack, spare wheel and lug wrench to the work area. Loosen the nuts without having jacked up the car, to prevent the wheel spin on you. Turn counterclockwise to loosen the nut until it comes off. Next step is to jack up the car and remove the old wheel now.
After having taken out the lug nuts, pull the wheel with your weight forward to prevent from falling backward. Adjust well the spare wheel in the threaded shafts so that they fit. Then tighten the nuts in the proper order. Lower the jack so that the tyre rests on the ground. Replace the hubcap or the plate.
You are ready to drive again.